by Corinne Brown
 
Once known as the Queen City of the West, Denver has hosted the legendary and famous since its founding back in 1858. From presidents to film stars, they've shared in her illustrious past. But can you guess what celebrities like Buffalo Bill Cody, Teddy Roosevelt, Chief Sitting Bull, Princess Anne, Roy Rogers and Bob Hope all had in common?

Only those in the know can tell you -- they each raised a glass or enjoyed a meal in the city's oldest eating and drinking establishment, the famed Buckhorn Exchange Restaurant at 1000 Osage Street, just south of the city's booming urban core.

Opened in 1893 by proprietor Henry H. "Scout" Zeitz, the Buckhorn was so named because it stood directly across from the Rio Grand railroad and the Buckhorn Lodge that housed railroad workers over night. It received the city's first liquor license. World renowned buffalo hunter and showman William F. "Buffalo Bill" Cody was among the first of many celebrities to step through its doors.

Owner and proprietor Zeitz, also known as "Shorty," was both a wild game hunter and guide and had actually ridden with Buffalo Bill as a young man. Famed Lakota Chieftain and Wild West show star, Chief Sitting Bull bestowed him with his nickname due to his stature. But Zeitz's real legacy was the restaurant itself, a popular gathering place where hearty meals, fresh wild game, and plenty of brew were guaranteed. Back then, it was frequented by cattlemen, miners, railroad builders, silver barons, Indian chiefs, gamblers and businessmen. Over time, at least three American presidents have dined on the premises and a host of VIPs have left their best wishes and autographed photos on the walls.

Throughout the space is the Buckhorn's remarkable collection of wild game trophies bagged by Zeitz, including museum mounted fowl, plus heads of deer, moose, antelope, sheep, and bison, over 500 specimens in all. You'll also find a 125 piece gun collection that includes Colt.45s, Winchesters, Derringers, a Sharp's sporting rifle from 1889, and other historic pieces. In fact, just about everywhere you look there's some wonderful artifact from yesteryear. Consider President Teddy Roosevelt's autograph which appears on official stationery along with a photo of his personal express train and the flag from the engine. For history buffs, the Buckhorn is a field day.

On the second floor is the rooftop garden dining area and the Buckhorn's Victorian lounge, crowned by the imported white oak bar made in Germany in 1857, brought over by the Zeitz family. Comfy seating allows guests to enjoy a drink or relax with coffee after dinner. If your timing is right, you can enjoy the wide ranging repertoire of Roz Brown on his autoharp, a musician who's delighted audiences at the Buckhorn since 1980. In fact, his is probably the longest-running "gig" in Denver's musical history, performing every Wednesday through Saturday nights.

On Saturdays, he's joined by his longtime saddle pal, Bill Barwick, a nationally known, award-winning western music recording artist who's contributed his deep mellow voice, original Western songs, and engaging style to the stage since 1984. Together, they recapture the flavor of the Old West like no other, entertaining the Buckhorn's patrons with their special brand of wit and harmony.

"I love what our music brings to the people who come down to join us," said Barwick. "Whether they're first-timers, occasional visitors, or the folks who join us almost every weekend, it's their response that fuels our energy. To them, I bring my love of the music and the chance to play it with a good friend. When a song connects with someone in the audience, that's what rewards us most."

With all this, a great visit to the Buckhorn is still about the food. Manager Bill Dutton explains it this way. "We've scoured Old West cookbooks to bring you the finest in western cuisine and exotic meats. Colorado grass fed beef and lamb, prime buffalo, ranch-raised elk, pheasant and quail are our specialties. We even serve yak and ostrich on occasion. And our appetizers hark back to the days of Shorty Zeitz--rattlesnake, alligator and Rocky Mountain oysters."

Much of the menu variety can be traced back to 1893 and Henry Zeitz senior who introduced his German and Pennsylvania Dutch culinary heritage to the restaurant and saloon. Some of these early influences still remain today, such as the savory bean soup, the zesty bratwrust plate, Gramma Fanny's Melt in Your Mouth Pot Roast Sandwich served on dark pumpernickel bread with home-made baked beans or potato chips, and the simply indescribable Dutch Apple pie with hot rum sauce.

Progress and growth have caught up to the Buckhorn as Denver revamps its transportation system. Where old steam engines once pulled up in front, now the snazzy new Light Rail high-speed commuter trains shuttle residents into and out of town on parallel tracks. Says Dutton, "It sure was considerate of them to put the Buckhorn on one of their major stops."

Future plans to make a pedestrian walkway to a nearby arts district will further link this piece of history to the city's future. In the meantime, no visit to Denver is complete without lunch or dinner at the historic Buckhorn Exchange. For more info go to www.buckhornexchange.com

 

2010
2011

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