THE BIG ISLE: KONA, HAWAII and SURROUNDING AREA
By Ann Terry Hill

Kona, on the Big Isle of Hawaii, is perhaps the lesser developed of Hawaii destinations, but in my list of favorites, it ranks right at the TOP! Just returned from a visit there, my traveling companion and photographer, Linda Schatzel and I had a magical time. For one thing, this area seems populated by Hawaiian families who have had the same businesses and jobs for generations—the coffee growers, the basket and hat weavers, and small family restaurants, to name a few. And they all seem so happy and genuinely pleased to meet you and share their history with you.

We only had seven days to visit everything we had on our itinerary, which was created for Travel Savvy West by the Big Island Visitors Bureau. Any part of it would be easy to duplicate for the general traveler. And we didn’t feel ‘touristy’ at all.

FAIR WIND II

Some of the highlights that beg mention are the snorkeling trip on FairWind Cruises, the visit to the Paniolo Preservation Society, a coffee stop in Hawi on the way to Waimea, and the Kona Coffee Living History Farm.

All have been family owned and operated for generations. We did this all on our own in our Avis Car Rental (on one tank of gas I might add, which is important since gas costs over $4.59 a gal. )

For those of you who have never snorkeled, or for those of you who are pros, the FAIR WIND CRUISES are absolutely the BEST in Kona. For three generations family owned, Fair Wind vessels sail to Kealakekua Bay. With permission they are allowed in this historic location with its clear blue water and a great variety of fish. I identified the yellow and blue Potter Angel, the blue striped Butterstripe Butterfly, the black and white Zebra Moray eel and many others I’m not sure about. I need to go back.

The crew, headed by Captain Elvis Sheppard on the FAIR WIND II, made sure everyone had a good time, still they kept their professionalism. You always felt safe. Listed by FROMMERS as the best on the Big Island, I quite agree. Book early, this is a very popular activity. www.fair-wind.com .

We were lucky enough to be in Kona during the Kona Coffee Festival. By-the-way, I am now hooked on ONLY 100% Kona Coffee. The Kona Coffee History Plantation visit gave a thorough introduction to the coffee plant; the blossom, the bean, and the picking, plus the grinding and shipping. You really should visit here before you start exploring the various coffee farms and tastes to truly appreciate what goes into making just one cup of this fine coffee so savory. The Festival is full of events, and has a Queen and Court and a delightful parade. Get there early or you will miss getting a viewing spot.

Ann Terry Hill (left) and Keawe'ehu Vredenburg, representing The Paniolo Preservation Society.

Driving to Waimea and visiting the Paniolo Preservation Society and the Anna Ranch Heritage Center, we had a tour of Anna’s beautifully preserved home and a lecture on what this cowgirl legend means to the locals. The Paniolo Preservation Society mission is to honor and preserve and maintain the Paniolo & ranching story in Hawaii. Here we met Dr. Billy Bergin, President of the Society and Dexter Keawe’ ehu Vredenburg, co-authors of the book on RICHARD SMART, the last of the Parker family members, and a legend himself, to operate the ranch.

These two men make Hawaiian cowboys their mission. Both Bergin and Vredenburg have roots at Parker Ranch. Vredenburg’s roots go back to the beginning and Bergin has been connected for decades.

Dr. Billy Bergin, President of Paniolo Preservation Society

The PPS includes a stunning bronze of Ikua Purdy, the king of the Hawaiian cowboys who out flanked and out ranked all the other cowboys at the 1908 Cheyenne Frontier Days.

Various saddles used by the paniolos for over a century are on display, and photos of all the PPS Hall of Fame members are on display.

This is a worthwhile historical stop. www.paniolopreservation.org.

The roadside markets are a must for anyone looking for authentic Island made objects. We visited several, and at the Alii Garden Market Place, happened on Stan Hein, a wood cutter exta ordinariere.

I had my eye on a Koa Wood bowl which was beautifully cut and polished. (Koa is a wood unique to the Islands). Hein gave me a lecture on woods, saying the Kou Wood, (pronounced Koe, different from the Koa wood) which he had displayed on a higher shelf, is unique and quickly disappearing.

He convinced me with his knowledge that this was a smarter purchase and I bought a small Kou Wood bowl, the wood of which is yellow and brown. It is from the wood of this tree that traditional Hawaiian bowls were carved for royalty. The mixed colors of the wood gives it its worth. Sadly, a moth in the Islands is destroying the Kou tree. Buy now. Stan Hein: SawmilldirectHawaii@gmail.com or 808.430.3946.

Eating was another pleasure for Linda and me. Huggo’s, on the water in downtown Kona, is a must for any visitor. Fish special of the day is always a sure bet. Reservations a must. Rock@huggos.com or 808.329.1493. Directly across the street is Bongo Ben’s, where we often stopped for breakfast or a snack. The historic Manago Hotel, located near the Capt. Cook memorial monument, www.managohotel.com or 808.323.2642, is old Hawaiian and reasonably priced. I promise you, you’ll waddle away from the table after a meal here. Those in-the-know seek Manago out. A very fun way to ‘go Native.’

Our accommodations were equally fine, Provided by OUTRIGGER Entertainment Group we were hosted at the Outrigger Royal Sea Cliff in Kailua-Kona, a most comfortable condominium with fully equipped kitchen, living room and bedroom for 4 nights. We then transferred to the Keauho Beach Resort, another Outrigger property. Keauhou Beach is a full service hotel with nightly entertainment, shops and its own beach. Turtles like to sun on the rocks there. Depending upon your own needs, I would recommend either choice as a most satisfactory place to stay.

With gentle ocean breezes, the sun setting through the palm trees, Hawaiian music drifting through the air,the 80 degree weather—we ended our visit with a traditional Island Breeze Luau at the King Kamehameha Hotel. 808.326.4969. The music and dancing tied in all of Polynesia, so it was cultural as well as entertaining. The strumming of the ukelele, the drums, all of it is playing back to me as I get set for snow and ice here in Pendleton, OR. Linda and I agree, we would return to Kona anytime. And next time we will make sure to visit Hilo and the Volcano area. We just couldn’t fit in everything.

Aloha!

Ann Terry Hill

Home | Contact | Top