One of my editors, Beverlee Johnson, and I were guests of the Maui Visitors Bureau for a sampling of tropical paradise this Fall.

We spent almost two weeks exploring the wonders of Maui County (Molokai, Lanai and Maui, Hawaii) It was a taste treat that left me hungering for more. In fact, if I’d been there any longer I probably would have acquired a tattoo and a parrot! Each Island of the county speaks with its own personality. Each managed to seduce us in its own way.

Molokai, known as the Friendly Island, home to the second biggest cattle ranch in the islands, and a long time haven for lepers before the disease was treatable, preserves the ambience of Old Hawaii. Perhaps a Hawaii of 50 years ago. With only 7,000 people on the whole isle, a couple days here and you feel like part of the family, calling everyone by first name, knowing who is a cousin to whom, and thoroughly enjoying the extended hospitality.

There are several motel/apartment complexes on the island, but we were fortunate to stay at The Lodge at Molokai Ranch (www.molokairanch.com) Definitely deluxe. The buildings are only two stories high (nothing allowed that is taller than a coconut tree on this isle), but the views overlooking the garden, pool and beyond to the Pacific are awesome. No postcard captures those sunsets. The rooms have ‘country décor’,( upscale country for sure) and the dining room is a short walk away in the main Lodge. Friday and Saturday nights The Lodge rocks with music provided by locals---Bo Perez (Molokai’s answer to Tony Bennett) and his group put on a show that could easily be a Las Vegas lounge show. But no, the musicians in this group love and live on Molokai.

Sunday mornings, Uncle Jimmy, the 5th generation paniolo on the ranch holds a worship hour in the stable area. With the barn swept clean, a white sheet covering a table from which he preaches, and with a saddle on either side to remind everyone where he is, and who he is, Uncle Jimmy dispenses his word of the day. And always he stresses, “Keep It Simple. “ A message worth remembering. Other days of the week he can be found running the Molokai Cowboy Connection on the ranch which offers guided horse tours, rodeos, fundamentals and hauling. The Molokai Rodeo, which he founded, takes place in October and has turned into a grand festival.

The Ranch also offers tentalows in its beach village. The tents are almost like camping out, but with a few amenities to assure your comfort. Tentalows are great for family vacations or those who want to “rough it, with style.” Spend time with Anakala Pilipo Solatorio, Molokai’s Story Teller who can be found on the grounds. His mission is to preserved the history of the island and its natives. The garden he has created here showcases many of the indigenous plants.

Molokai is in the midst of a controversy right now---those for and against development are locked in debate. Many of the locals don’t want their island to ever change, but others say they must progress if they are going to continue to exist. Right now, the white sand beaches and the golf courses are almost empty…there is no traffic problem. In fact there are NO traffic lights on the entire island. Development will bring change, and that is the debate. But for right now, Molokai remains a pristine paradise, just waiting to be discovered.

Lana’i, with a population of 3000, beckons tourists with three hotels, The Four Season Lana’i at Manele Bay and The Lodge at Koele both offering every imaginable amenity are 5 star for sure. You could stay in either and never venture out. The Hotel Lana’i original clapboard plantation style, and in the little town, is more like a country inn and very charming in its own way. Once the pineapple capital, tourism is now the major industry. The island made headlines a few years ago when Bill Gates selected it for the site of his wedding and rented the entire island. Now I’m told, he and an Arab prince own the two major hotels here.

Lana’i has long expanses of undiscovered beach front—great snorkeling, scuba diving, surfing and fishing are not crowded and hard to beat. We spent one afternoon exploring Lana’i City, the only community on the island. The core area of this sleepy little town surrounds Dole Park, with many shops, restaurants and art galleries. This has become quite a colony for artists and we had the chance to meet some well known artists, like Mike Carroll and Jordan Weinstein face-to-face. The backgrounds of the various denizens who live here is varied, but they all seemed to move here because the lifestyle and the island captured them. Many came to visit and never left.

Suffering from a bit of ‘sticker shock’ at the 5 Star hotel restaurants, we enjoyed a sandwich and a beer at Pele’s Other Garden, just across from the Park, all for $8.00. Lana’i, like Molokai operates on “Hawaiian Time.” Nothing is rushed, things all happen in their own time. Definitely a place to unwind.

About an hour’s ferry ride away from Lana’i is the highly developed island of Maui. Coming into the picturesque Lahaina harbor we were face to face with civilization and a much more rushed state of being. Still, the Maui magic prevailed as we made the 45 minute drive from Lahaina to Wailea and ensconced ourselves in the fabulous Grand Wailea (www.grandwailea.com) for two nights. The grand marble lobby with all the orchids, the water treatments, the Aloha welcome.. Yes indeed, it is GRAND. Our every want was satisfied. The only thing we missed was dining at the hotel’s famed Humuhumunukunukuapua’s & Botero Bar. But as we slid into our cloudlike beds with the very high sheet thread count, we were able to contain our disappointment.

Having visited Maui many times, we went for some of the more 'untouristy' activities this time like traveling to Upcountry and enjoying this culinary specialty of tea and scones in Ali’is Kula Lavender Garden. www.aliikulalavender.com Not only does the lavender bring out a special flavor, it is said to have healing powers too. After touring the gardens we made our way to Bev and Joe Gannon’s General Store in Haleimaile for a chance to again sample Bev’s signature crab sandwich appetizer. Although she’s been asked for the recipe many times, it is still a state secret---“Maybe, when I die,” she says, “I will put it on my tombstone.”

My traveling companion left me on my own to further explore Maui for the balance of the trip. Wailuku, the county seat, had a Friday night festival while I were there. This old town reeks atmosphere along with interesting shopping.
One of my favorite finds was “If The Shoe Fits” where the shop owner then adds, “Buy it in every color. On the web at www.hotbiskitshoes.com , this shop offers exciting choices in sandals and accessories. With shoe sizes up to 15, most everyone can find a fit, comfortable and classy.. I added to the national debt here.

As far as I’m concerned, you can’t visit Maui without spending time in Ka’anapali, so for 2 nights I lodged at the old Ka’anapali Beach Hotel-(www.kbhmaui.com )--not 5 Star by going standards, but in my book one of the most endearing hotels in the islands. Built in the 70s, directly on a great stretch of beach, it remains one of the few hotels privately owned anywhere. The hotel has been ranked #1 as best value in the state of Hawaii by the prestigious TRAVEL & LEISURE magazine. The mission of Ka’anapali Beach is to maintain the Hawaiian way of life, nurturing customs, foods, arts—anything that pertains to native. The fact most of the help has been there for years, speaks of the high morale, and this rubs off on the guests. Award winning chef Tom Muromoto offers many tropical choices on his menu—one being the nationally acclaimed Hawaiian Diet (steamed fish, poi, and fruit) for guests trying to maintain a healthy lifestyle while on vacation.

I love it here— live Hawaiian music floats up to your room until about 10 pm. The gardens surrounding the whale shaped swimming pool invite you to just sit and soak up that wonderful, fragrant, tropical air. It’s a hard place to leave, but when it comes time for Aloha, each guest is gifted with a kukui lei. Each time the guest returns, a white kukui nut is added to the original brown nuts of the lei, a prized possession and a recognition of status for veteran visitors.

A short drive from Ka’anapali is the Maui Ocean Center-the Hawaiian Aquarium,. www.mauioceancenter.com Don’t overlook this Center. It is Hawaii’s top rated family attraction. You don’t have to be a family to enjoy the journey through a sea of life. Over 60 exhibits teaming with coral, fish, turtles, sharks & sea jellies. .This is an up close look at Hawaii’s marine life. Particularly wonderful if you haven’t had a chance to snorkel or scuba dive.

A perfect Maui sunset let me know my visit was about to end. With tropical scents, the warm air, and a little sand still between my toes, I knew even the most perfect visit was over. The Hawaiian saying “Aloha and a hui hoi” is etched in my memory and comforted me:--- ‘good-bye and until we meet again.”