THE HIGH ROAD TO TAOSby Howard HianThe history of the southwest is replete with colorful people, adventurers and shifting cultures. Taos shares all of this and adds a rich subtext of the arts to the mix. Taos was first settled around 900 AD by ancestors of the Taos Indians. Two of its present villages, Pueblos Taos and Picuris, were inhabited by the Pueblo Indians one hundred years later. In the mid 14th century, the first European explorers, the Conquistadors of Coronado’s expedition, found their way to Taos while searching for gold. During the next 400 years, the region was a crossroads of activity. Spaniards, Plains Indians and Mexicans passed through, settled, traded and eventually were driven out by the western expansion of American settlers. In the 1800s, mountain men headquartered there and by mid-century Kit Carson moved to Taos. After the Mexican-American War, the U.S. took possession of the area which also included Arizona and part of Colorado. It was known as the Territory of New Mexico.
In 1912, New Mexico earned its statehood status. Shortly thereafter, Mabel Dodge Luhan, the first of many patrons of the arts in Taos, urged artists, writers and intelligentsia to settle there. Those who joined her make up an impressive “Who’s Who?” of 20th century artists. The mind boggling array included Ansel Adams, Willa Cather, Aldous Huxley, Carl Jung, D.H. Lawrence, Georgia O’Keefe, Thornton Wilder, Thomas Wolfe and Nicholas Fechin. They began an art colony tradition that remains alive and flourishing today.
Plan on at least three full days of sightseeing. From Albuquerque, the closest major airport, via Santa Fe, I would suggest traveling the spectacular 70 mile “High Road” to Taos. On the way, stop at the historic town of Chimayo to sightsee and shop. The villagers are famous for their weaving and production of Chimayo red chili. It is estimated that 300,000 pilgrims flock there each year to pray at El Santurio de Chimayo, a healing shrine which was built between l8l4 and l8l6. When you reach Taos, pick up a copy of The Historic Taos Self Guided Walking Tour, put on your walking shoes and wander through the Historic District and Taos Plaza. There are over 65 galleries, shops and restaurants. The “must visit” list includes the Millicent Rogers Museum, the Mabel Dodge Luhan House, the St Francis of Assisi Church, the Martinez Hacienda, the Kit Carson Museum and the Fechin House. The latter was the home and studio of the Russian artist émigré, Nicholas Fechin. Built between 1927-1933, it is on the National Register of Historic Places. The house and studio also contain Fechin's art, including ornately decorated doors, doorways and cabinets that he carved. It is also home to the Taos Art Museum, featuring over 300 works of art by local artists.
Drive to the spectacular Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. It is 1200 feet long and 650 feet above the Rio Grande River. When you are finished enjoying the view, shop at the roadside stands for authentic Indian/Southwestern art and jewelry. Note: bargaining is acceptable. Head to Arroyo Seco and visit the Fidget Gallery, an enticing spot to buy unusual and fanciful items. The Taos Pueblo is a must. For over one thousand years, it has been continuously inhabited. Pottery, crafts and silver jewelry made by local artisans are sold at the shops within the Pueblo.
For lunch or dinner try the award winning Eske’s Brew Pub and Eatery, the oldest operating brew house in New Mexico. Drop into the Kachina Lodge for a nightcap and listen to the Singin’ Cowboy, Alan Fremont. The Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory on the Plaza features hand dipped candy. Their use of chilies and pinon in their chocolates, fudges and brittles is creative and unusual.
Travelers’ Information New Mexico is officially known as the “Land of Enchantment.” The description is apt; history, culture, art, architecture and the people, past and present all blend to make this place special. Hint: Read any of Tony Hillerman’s mysteries to get a flavor of Native American cultural and mystical life in New Mexico.
The Taos Pueblo,
www.taospueblo.com, is the only living Native American community designated both a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and a National Historic Landmark.
See.
For a free vacation guide and the Self Guided Walking Tour of 20 Historic Taos Landmarks, call 1-888-953-8277 or log on to
www.taosguide4.com. Information concerning all the galleries and events in Taos can be found at
www.taosgalleryassoc.com. For a map of the area, go to
www.taosnews.com. The Taos County Chamber of Commerce can be reached at 1 800 732 TAOS (8267) or online at
www.taoschamber.com.
The Museum Association of Taos,
www.taosmusems.org, was formed in 1996, linking the Taos Art Museum & Fechin House, Blumenschein Home & Museum, Harwood Museum of Art, La Hacienda de los Martinez and the Millicent Rogers Museum. The latter has one of the foremost collections of Southwestern art in the world, including Native American jewelry, ceramics, painting, textiles, weaving, sculpture and Kachina dolls, all displayed in an historic adobe house. For information, call 1-505-758-2462 log on to
www.millicentrogers.org.
Fidget in Arroyo Seco is a unique gallery featuring hand painted pillows, linens, wall hangings and framed artwork by Alison Traister. Just seven miles from the Plaza, it’s worth a special trip. Call 1-505-776-1900 or go online to see samples of their “functional and non-functional” art.
www.fidgetgallery.com The Stephen Kilborn Gallery features oils, watercolors and pottery. Kilborn’s studio, 17 miles out of town, is open daily and one can see how his pottery is created, decorated and fired. Call Kilborn Galleries at 1-800-853-2433 or log on to
www.stephenkilborn.com.
Enjoy the journey….
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